Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and tourists equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – adding it to a select roster of world cities and sparking hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city is no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, lively, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has always shaped its heart: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and elevated to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, fusing Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights fresh harvests but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people around the world to discover these narratives and experience the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
